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Your specific skin type is a basic genetic pre-disposition which underlies the general behaviour and characteristics of your skin. On top of this, other factors can influence its appearance over time. These factors include climate, sun exposure, air and water quality, use of make-up and other skin products including prescription creams, hormonal fluctuations, stress (emotional, physical and environmental), age and diet. One or more of these factors can have the effect of damaging or sensitizing your skin, leaving it susceptible to the effect of other stressors and causing it to behave diff erently to your basic genetic skin type.

Thus, skin which may be genetically oily type, undergoing a short period of hormonal change, can end up extremely damaged, dry and sensitized with inappropriate treatment. This is just one example and doesn’t include the added effect of poor diet, chlorinated unfiltered drinking and washing water, regular sun exposure at unsafe times, exam and relationship stress, heavy cover-up and prescription creams…….all common experiences for a teenager!

pimplesFor example, at puberty the surge of reproductive hormones can have the effect of increasing sebum (the substance produced by the oil-producing glands in the skin) production, causing pores to clog up, trapping dirt and residue. This becomes blackheads or if infection occurs, acne which is typically treated by using overly harsh detergent-based cleansers marketed as anti-bacterial washes. Detergents are very good at dissolving grease and oil – they were, after all, developed for industrial strength cleaning and subsequently migrated into household and personal care products due to their inexpensive production – so good, in fact, that with repeated use they also dissolve the lipids (fats) that hold the epidermal cells together and form part of the skin’s water-proof barrier. As these lipids are dissolved, the skin cells fall apart and slough off, leaving the skin thinner and more permeable to other external sensitizers. The body then typically reacts by working overtime making more cells to push to the surface to repair the epidermis, setting up a chain reaction leading to psoriasis, dermatitis and along with other factors, eczema.
So, with all this in mind, here is a simple test you can do to help determine your genetic skin type, regardless of your age:

Wash your face with a mild non-detergent cleanser or bar of cold-process (handmade) soap. Pat dry and take a few pieces of tissue paper, pressing them to different parts of your face – forehead, chin, cheeks, nose and jaw line.

If none of the pieces stick or pick up some oily patches and your skin feels tight, your skin type is DRY. If some pieces stick or have some oil on them, take note of where the oil comes from, typically the forehead, nose and chin. This indicates COMBINATION skin, the most common skin type. If the oily patches come from all over, you more likely have OILY type skin. If no pieces pick up oil, and your skin looks or feels irritated, itchy or flushed after cleansing, you have SENSITIVE type skin. If no pieces pick up oil, or there is only a little and your skin feels smooth, you have inherited NORMAL skin, the rarest of all skin types.

To find out what this means, here is a synopsis of the five basic skin types:

NORMAL SKIN has a smooth texture with medium-sized pores, usually not visible unless viewed very closely. It has good circulation leading to efficient delivery of nutrients and oxygen and removal of wastes. It provides a healthy protective barrier against external influences and produces enough oil to maintain this barrier without clogging pores. Lucky for some, but unusual.
OILY SKIN looks shiny and has visible pores. Due to the abundant production of sebum, these pores often become clogged, trapping dirt, pollution and products applied to the skin. It also tends to be more prone to extra sebum production in reaction to stress and hormonal changes, leading to acne and blackheads. Special care needs to be taken with mild, non-abrasive cleansing and some plant oil is necessary in skin products to avoid stimulating further sebum production in reaction to perceived drying on the surface.
On the positive side, oily skin is less prone to visible ageing and wrinkles, notwithstanding dangerous sun exposure.
COMBINATION SKIN experiences areas of both oily and dry type. Treated well, it can appear like normal skin, although it will tend to feel tighter and drier on the cheeks and possibly forehead and pores may be visible in some areas, typically around the nose and chin. Blemishes may occur in the oily areas and dehydration can be a problem. Products which help to balance the overall production of sebum in the skin should be used.
DRY SKIN has fine, usually invisible pores, and can look dull or silvery due to dead surface cells. It will feel tight and dry after cleansing and is prone to wrinkles but not usually to blemishes. It is typically susceptible to dehydration, especially after sun exposure. Dehydration is lack of water in the skin layers, rather than lack of oil. Applying a protective layer which still allows the skin to breathe but guards against rapid moisture loss is essential for dry skin and cleansers which have some quality plant oils are preferable. Dry skin can become flaky and psoriatic with improper care.
SENSITIVE SKIN is thin and reactive with fine pores. It may display symptoms of allergies rapidly, including rashes and flushing. If these occur frequently over a long period of time, broken capillaries can result. Sensitive skin can be itchy or sting after cleansing and even after applying moisturiser. Very simple products are preferable, such as one-phase lotions (eg. toner+ facial serum). It is very important to avoid synthetic ingredients in your products, particularly preservatives and fragrances (not to be confused with pure essential oils, some of which can be very soothing to sensitive skin when diluted).
Care must also be taken with diet, and if sensitivity continues even after using quality natural products for several months, naturopathic and homeopathic advice is highly recommended to determine other possible aggravating factors.

As skin matures, it receives less growth hormone, and as it experiences life changes such as menopause, it will lose the ability to retain moisture and become dehydrated. Both of these factors, together with increased years of sun exposure lead to loss of elasticity, which in turn leads to the formation of wrinkles and loss of skin tone. Early use of natural sunscreens and developing the daily habit of consuming plenty of pure filtered water and a wholefood diet rich in fresh fruit & vegetables and antioxidants will help keep the effects of ageing to a minimum.

Now that you have determined your genetic skin type, refer to the table below to help you choose the right products for you.

SKIN TYPE
Daily Cleanser
Toner
Moisturiser
Exfoliant
Deep Cleanser
Special Treatment

NORMAL
(Facial Care Sample Pack for
N-C)

Rose Geranium Cleansing Gel
twice daily
Rose Geranium Refining Mist
before moisturiser
Rose Geranium Moisture Balancer or Damask Rose Face & Neck Serum
twice daily
Almond Rose Cleansing Scrub
up to 3x week
Green Tea Cleansing Mask
once a month
 

OILY
(Facial Care Sample Pack for
O)

Rose Geranium Cleansing Gel
twice daily
Cedarwood Refining Mist
before moisturiser
Cedarwood Moisture Gel
twice daily
Almond Rose Cleansing Scrub
once a fortnight
Green Tea Cleansing Mask
once a week
Manuka Spot Gel for acne as required

COMBINATION
(Facial Care Sample Pack for N-C)

Rose Geranium Cleansing Gel
twice daily

Rose Geranium Refining Mist
before moisturiser
Rose Geranium Moisture Balance
twice daily
Almond Rose Cleansing Scrub
once a week
Green Tea Cleansing Mask
once a fortnight
Manuka Spot Gel for blemishes as required

DRY & MATURE
(Facial Care Sample Pack for
D-S)

Palmarosa Cleansing Milk
twice daily
Rosewood Refining Mist
before moisturiser
Rosewood Moisture Lotion or Damask Rose Face & Neck Serum twice daily
Rose & Jasmine Facial Crème at night
Almond Rose Cleansing Scrub after removing heavy make-up or exposure to excessive pollution or irritating products Almond Rose Cleansing Scrub
add moisturiser &
leave on for 20 minutes as a mask
Skin Soothing Balm for irritations and flaking

SENSITIVE
(Facial Care Sample Pack for
D-S)

Palmarosa Cleansing Milk
twice daily
Rosewood Refining Mist or pure rosewater
before moisturiser
Rosewood Moisture Lotion or Lavender Face & Neck Serum
twice daily
    Skin Soothing Balm for irritations
EYES
see Eyes & Lips page
Calendula Make-Up Remover before daily cleanser Green Tea Eye Serum for irritated, puffy or dry eyes and to prevent wrinkles Rosehip Eye Balm for mature skin to treat wrinkles & crow’s feet and prevent dryness      
LIPS
see Eyes & Lips page
Vanilla Bean, Chocolate or Sweet Orange Lip Balm for dryness and cracking as a barrier treatment
REFER TO SPECIAL KITS FOR SPECIFIC PROBLEMS, eg. eczema, scarring, stretch marks, insect bites etc.
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